The crust must be compact and crunchy and the colour intense. The inside must be light and spongey-looking. Next, when you taste it, you’ll notice the predominant flavour: multi cereals, onion, olives, raisins and nuts, ham…anything you can imagine and much more can be found in these “star” breads.
Once you’re sitting at your table, bread is usually the first point of contact with the restaurant’s food, and if it’s good, you know you’re off to a good start. That’s why restaurants awarded Michelin stars incorporate top of the range bread into their menus or offer it to accompany dishes, turning the “daily bread” into a haute cuisine bonus.
The cuisine of Martín Berasategui‘s restaurant, for example, offers a range of artisan bread, amongst which the most popular are their rye bread, ten cereal bread and cornbread. In Carme Ruscalleda’s Sant Pau, every table has its own bread, and it is not served at the same time but according to the taster menu dish, with the idea that diners can enjoy them all in a single meal.
However, the bread is not always made in the restaurant kitchens themselves. The baker at Triticum (Xevi Ramón), has specialised in producing artisan bread for haute cuisine and they distribute this bread to the best restaurants in the country. Amongst them, El Celler de Can Roca, to whom they provide rustic bread, focaccia and a subtle apricot and walnut bread. Triticum also created an original wine bread for the Roca brothers with its own bouquet, made using Emporda grapes.
Despite being completely artisan, this is bread that is precooked and then deep-frozen which still contains the classic ingredients: water, flour, yeast and salt, but produced with natural ferments and sourdough -originally from France- which give the end product a very special personality. After a minimum 24 hours’ fermentation, the bread is cooked in the oven until it is 90% cooked. The remaining 10% takes place in the restaurant, obtaining a spectacular, freshly-baked result.